Finishing and framing

First run a roller over the whole canvas, pressing firmly, so every drill sits flat. If the picture goes behind glass in a frame, that is enough.

For a picture displayed without glass, brush or sponge on a thin coat of diamond painting sealer and let it dry flat.

Lay the canvas flat under heavy books for a few days, with a sheet of baking paper over the drills. The baking paper stops the drills snagging and keeps any exposed glue off the books.

To avoid creases, always roll the canvas with the drills facing outwards.

Measure the decorated part of the canvas and choose a standard frame of that size, with or without glass. A frame with a mount hides the white border.

You can also stretch the canvas over a wooden frame and staple it at the back, like an artist's canvas.

Best not. Direct sunlight fades the colours over time and damp weakens the glue. Choose an indoor wall out of direct sun, ideally in a frame behind glass.

First run the roller over the whole canvas, then choose: a glazed frame (the simplest option, and it keeps dust off), a wooden stretcher for a canvas-art look, or a sealer if you display it without glass.

Many people also give their picture as a gift, or keep it rolled drills facing outwards until they find a frame. For framing, see our frame guide.

The neatest way is to mount the canvas on a rigid board (foam board or a light panel) with double-sided tape, then hang the board with removable wall strips or a small hook. You can also stretch it over a wooden stretcher.

Without glass, apply a sealer to keep dust off the drills, and avoid a wall in direct sunlight. Bulldog clips work as a quick fix, but the canvas may warp.

Take a wooden stretcher the size of the drilled area, or slightly smaller. Lay the canvas face down on a clean, soft surface, place the stretcher on top, fold the white border over the back and staple it, starting from the middle of each side and pulling gently.

Finish with the corners, folded into a triangle. The border must be wide enough; if it is narrow, pick a slightly smaller stretcher. More in our frame guide.

Measure the drilled area, not the whole canvas: the white border is hidden behind a mount or folded back. Standard frame sizes, such as 30 × 40 or 40 × 50 cm, often fit our common canvas sizes.

A glazed frame keeps dust off without a sealer. Choose a frame deep enough, as the drills add some thickness, so the glass does not press on the canvas. Every step is in our guide to choosing and fitting a frame.

Never iron the drill side: heat can dull the resin and soften the glue. For a creased canvas, the safest method is to leave it flat under books for a few days, protected by baking paper.

If a crease will not go, iron only the back, on a low setting without steam, with a cloth between the iron and the canvas, and test on an edge first. See also our article on warped canvases.

Dust it with a soft dry brush or a microfibre cloth, without pressing. If the picture is sealed, a barely damp cloth wiped gently is fine; dry it straight away.

Do not use lots of water or household cleaners: water weakens the glue and cleaners can dull the drills. The easiest way to avoid cleaning it at all is a glazed frame.

Yes for pictures made from your own photos or copyright-free designs. Designs with famous characters or brands (cartoons, films, superheroes) belong to their owners, so selling them can cause problems; it is better to keep or give them away.

If you sell, state the size, the drill shape and whether the picture is sealed or framed.

Yes. Small cards and keychains work on the same principle: a printed adhesive base, drills and a pen. They are quick, often one or two hours, and great for children or for trying the craft.

They are also a good use for leftover drills: a blank card, some double-sided tape and your spares are enough for a simple design. Keep the colours in a compartment box so you can find them.